Zermatt in Winter: A Travel Guide to Switzerland’s Most Iconic Ski Town
Zermatt, Switzerland was the very first stop on our two-week European ski road trip from November 29 to December 12. Next stops after Zermatt included 4 nights in the Dolomites followed by 5 Nights in Austria.
As part of the Matterhorn Ski Paradise, Zermatt is included on the Ikon Pass and is open all year round, which made it an easy addition to our itinerary.
Zermatt is a tiny, car-free mountain village filled with cozy chalets, boutique shops, charming restaurants, lively bars, and world-class skiing. The town sits beneath the iconic Matterhorn, one of the most recognizable mountains in the world, and is home to Europe’s highest ski resort. One of the most unique experiences here is the ability to ski across the border into Cervinia, Italy, then return to Switzerland — all in one day.
If interested in other ski destinations check out my 5 Nights in Banff -Winter Itinerary
Our 3 Nights in Zermatt at a Glance
When we visited: November 29–December 2
Where we stayed: One-bedroom Airbnb
Trip style: Winter/ski trip
Route: Milan → Täsch → Zermatt → Täsch → Dolomites
Our itinerary
Day 1: Milan → Täsch → Zermatt
Day 2: Explore Zermatt village
Day 3: Skiing in Zermatt
Day 4: Zermatt → Täsch → Dolomites
Our biggest takeaway
If skiing is the main reason you’re visiting Zermatt, I would stay longer than three nights. We were there at the very beginning of ski season, and while the lifts were operating, poor visibility affected our plans. When you’re spending this much money to visit somewhere like Zermatt, you don’t want one cloudy day to be the reason you never see the Matterhorn.
How to Get to Zermatt by Car
This is probably the most important thing to know before planning your trip:
You cannot drive your car into Zermatt.
Zermatt is a car-free village, and private vehicles are only permitted as far as Täsch, approximately 5 km from Zermatt. From Täsch, you continue by train or taxi. This actually sounds more complicated than it is. Once you know what to do, the process is very easy:
Drive → Park in Täsch → Take the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway Train → Arrive in central Zermatt
OR..
Drive → Park in Täsch → Take a Taxi (such as Taxi Zermatt) → Arrive in central Zermatt
Our Route From Milan
We flew into Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) and rented a car from Green Motion.
The Green Motion rental location was a little farther from the airport than some of the other rental companies, but it was significantly cheaper when we booked. For us, the savings were worth dealing with the shuttle. We had to purchase a border permit from the rental car company since we were arriving in Milan, Italy and then driving into Switzerland. We purchased the permit at Green Motion Rental Car the day we arrived.
From Milan, we drove toward Switzerland and ultimately stopped in Täsch before continuing into Zermatt by train.
Driving From Milan? Consider the BLS Simplon Car Train
Here’s a tip when driving between northern Italy and Switzerland.
Instead of driving over the Simplon Pass, you can load your car onto the BLS Simplon car transport train between Iselle, Italy and Brig, Switzerland. The train itself takes only about 20 minutes and runs approximately every 90 minutes. You can check train times at BLS Simplon Car Train Schedule.
The idea is simple:
Milan → Iselle → Car train → Brig → Täsch → Zermatt
Google Maps automatically directed us to use this route which made the drive easier and allowed us to avoid driving the mountain pass.
The car transport service is especially useful in winter because you can avoid dealing with potentially snowy or icy mountain-pass conditions.
A few things to know
- The Italian loading station is in Iselle di Trasquera
- The Swiss station is in Brig
- The train journey takes about 20 minutes
- Services operate approximately every 90 minutes
- You remain inside your vehicle during the crossing
- You can use the service in the opposite direction when leaving Switzerland
- Check the current timetable before leaving at BLS Simplon Car Train Schedule
- Current BLS information recommends checking the operating status and waiting times before your journey
BLS currently lists the one-way car-transport price for a vehicle up to 3.5 tonnes at CHF 27 when purchased on site, or CHF 25 online. Prices can change, so check the current fare before your trip.
Täsch to Zermatt Train
Once you reach Täsch, you’ll need to leave your rental car behind. We parked at the Matterhorn Terminal Täsch, which is the easiest option because the parking garage and train station are connected.
The Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn shuttle connects Täsch and Zermatt. The ride takes only 12 minutes, and trains currently run approximately every 20 minutes during the main daytime schedule.
A round-trip ticket (valid for up to 30 days) costs about CHF 17.20 (~$22 USD). Be sure to keep your ticket for the return journey.
You can buy tickets:
- At the station upon arrival
- Or pre-purchase online via the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn website at Zermatt train tickets
- No seat reservations are required
- If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, the train is included
The train ride was so easy that I wouldn’t let the car-free rule discourage you from visiting Zermatt.
Do You Need a Special Ski Pass to Ski Into Italy?
Yes, this is important. A standard Zermatt ski pass does not automatically give you access to the Italian ski area.
You need the International ski pass, which includes Breuil-Cervinia and Valtournenche. Current Matterhorn Ski Paradise information specifically allows you to select the international Zermatt-Cervinia option when purchasing your ski pass.
Pro Tip: Buy the standard Zermatt lift ticket in advance, then check the weather before your ski day. If conditions are clear and operabale, you can purchase the international supplement at the ticket window that day, giving you access to ski from Zermatt into Italy without committing to the more expensive pass ahead of time.
Have an Ikon Pass? You Can Ski Into Italy!
If you already have an Ikon Pass or Ikon Base Pass, there’s an extra perk in Zermatt: you can use your pass to ski from Switzerland into Cervinia and Valtournenche, Italy.
For the current season, Ikon Pass holders get 7 days at Zermatt, while Ikon Base Pass holders get 5 days. If you cross into Italy, a ski day is deducted from both your Zermatt and Valle d’Aosta access.
This is definitely something I wish we could have done! Unfortunately, the low visibility during our ski day meant we couldn’t make the trip into Italy, but if the weather is clear, it would be an amazing way to experience two countries in one ski day.
Getting Around Zermatt
Once you’re in Zermatt, you really don’t need a car.
The village is very walkable, and you can also use:
- Electric taxis
- Electric buses
- Bicycles
- Walking
- Horse-drawn carriages
The local buses also connect different areas of the village and ski-lift access points.
If you’re carrying a lot of luggage, ski equipment or simply don’t feel like walking, you’ll see electric taxis around the train station. These small, specialized taxis are incredibly convenient.
We used an electric taxi to get from the train station to our Airbnb since we had suitcases and a large ski bag.
- Cost: ~CHF 30
- Cash is recommended (ATMs nearby)
- Our credit cards had issues with the electric taxis credit card machine
Where to Stay in Zermatt
You really can’t go too wrong with location in Zermatt because the village is compact and walkable.
Your bigger decision is whether you want:
- A hotel with amenities and services
- An apartment/Airbnb with more space
- Easy access to the ski lifts
- A location closer to restaurants and nightlife
We stayed in a cozy one-bedroom Airbnb with:
- Living room
- Kitchen
- Bedroom
- Balcony
The location was one of the best parts. We were about a 5-minute walk from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise lift, which was incredibly convenient for skiing.
If skiing is your priority, I would definitely pay attention to which lift is closest to your accommodation rather than simply choosing the cheapest place.
Bonus: The Cutest Local Resident 🐈
One unexpected highlight of our stay was the local orange cat that lived on the property. It followed us into our Airbnb, hung out with us, and absolutely refused to leave — and we were more than happy about it. Honestly, 10/10 experience.
Things to Do in Zermatt in Winter (Our 3-Night Itinerary)
We spent three nights in Zermatt, and while I unfortunately caught a cold at the start of our trip, we still managed to enjoy the town at a slower, more relaxed pace.
Day 1: Arrival Day
After a long day of flying, driving, parking, training, and checking in, we were completely exhausted. We settled into our Airbnb and called it an early night.
Day 2: Exploring Zermatt Town
We slept in and didn’t wake up until around 11 AM, deciding to skip skiing and explore the town instead.
- Late breakfast at Hotel Zermama — highly recommend
- Wandered through Zermatt’s charming streets and shops
- Stopped for hot punch that we passed while walking around (with a whiskey shot — highly encouraged)
- Dinner at Schäferstube, a cozy, traditional restaurant
- Ended the night with a beer at Papperla Pub
It was the perfect low-key day to start off our 2 week Europe ski trip.
Day 3: Ski Day (Weather-Dependent)
We geared up for our first ski day but were briefly delayed by our furry Airbnb kitty friend who clearly didn’t want us to leave.
Once on the mountain, we did a few runs, but low visibility made conditions challenging. We stopped for hot soup and drinks at Restaurant Furri, then skied a bit more before calling it early.
Unfortunately, the weather prevented us from:
- Seeing the Matterhorn
- Skiing into Italy
Still, being on the mountain was an experience in itself. Later that afternoon, we returned to town around 4 PM and continued exploring Zermatt before turning in for the night.
Day 4: Departure
We checked out, grabbed an electric taxi to the train station, retrieved our rental car in Täsch, and drove about 5 hours to the Dolomites, our next destination.
If your visiting the Dolomites in the winter check out: Dolomites Winter Itinerary: A 4-Night Ski Trip
Other Things to Do in Zermatt if You Aren’t Skiing
If you’re visiting Zermatt in winter and don’t want to spend the entire trip on skis, you have plenty of options.
1. Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
This should be near the top of your list. The Matterhorn Glacier Paradise sits at 3,883 meters above sea level and is Europe’s highest mountain station. From Zermatt, the journey takes roughly 40–45 minutes, including transfers.
At the top, you can visit:
- Viewing platform
- Glacier Palace
- Cinema Lounge
- Restaurants
- High-altitude glacier attractions
The viewing platform offers panoramic views across the Alps. But check the weather first. There’s not much point spending the money to go all the way to 3,883 meters if the entire mountain is covered in clouds.
2. Gornergrat
Another major Zermatt attraction is Gornergrat, which sits at about 3,089 meters.
You reach it by the historic Gornergrat Railway, a cog railway that has been operating since 1898. From the top, you get incredible views of the Matterhorn and surrounding 4,000-meter peaks.
3. Winter Hiking & Snowshoeing
You don’t need skis to experience the mountains. Zermatt has groomed winter hiking trails and snowshoe routes, allowing you to explore the snowy landscape without stepping onto a ski run.
Important Winter Travel Tips for Zermatt
- We visited early in the ski season (Nov 29 – Dec 2)
- Would recommend staying longer then 3 nights in case the weather is not ideal for skiing some of the days- which is what happened to us
- Ski lifts were open, but Iglu-Dorf was closed
- Iglu-Dorf typically operates from mid-December through early April
- Access for the Iglu-Dorf is ski-only for day visits or there are overnight stays in igloos available
Apres-ski in Zermatt
Apres ski was also very quiet during our visit. If you’re visiting later in the season, check out:
- Hennu Stall (on the mountain)
- Cervo (on the mountain)
- Champagne Bar (on the mountain)
- Harry’s Ski Bar (in town)
- Papperla Pub (in town)
Final Thoughts on Zermatt in Winter
Zermatt is a truly special winter destination. The car-free streets, mountain scenery, and charming atmosphere make it such a unique tiny ski town. Even with less-than-perfect weather and an early-season visit, Zermatt was still worth the stop.
This is one of those places that deserves a return trip — and next time, I’ll be back for full-on apres ski, clearer views of the Matterhorn, and maybe another visit from that orange cat.
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