5 Nights in Banff in Winter: Skiing, Hot Springs & Frozen Waterfalls

5 Nights in Banff in Winter: The Perfect Banff Itinerary for First-Time Visitors

Banff had been on my bucket list for years, especially during the winter. Between the skiing, frozen lakes, mountain scenery, and cozy restaurants, it looked like the perfect winter getaway.

Our days were filled with skiing, hiking to frozen waterfalls, soaking in hot springs, and exploring some of Banff’s most iconic hotels. While the weather didn’t always cooperate, we still had an amazing trip and would absolutely go back.

If you’re planning your first winter trip to Banff, this guide covers everything we learned, where we stayed, and our complete five-night itinerary.

---

Banff at a Glance

Trip Length	5 Nights
When We Visited	Early December (December 8th -13th)
Closest Airport	Calgary International Airport (YYC)
Where We Stayed	Airbnb in Canmore
Rental Car	Yes
Main Activities	Skiing, Johnston Canyon, Banff Upper Hot Springs, Lake Louise, Fairmont Hotels

---

Our 5-Night Banff in Winter Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Calgary

Since our flight landed late in the evening, we decided not to drive straight to Banff.

Instead, we spent our first night in Calgary before heading into the mountains the next morning. After picking up our rental car, we had dinner at Major Tom, a rooftop restaurant with incredible views of the Calgary skyline.

It was a great way to start the trip before getting some rest for the drive to Banff the next day. We stayed the night downtown at Alt Hotel Calgary in East Village which was about a 2o minute walk to Major Tom Restaurant but since it was very cold out we took an Uber ride.

---

Day 2: Johnston Canyon, Banff Upper Hot Springs & Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

After spending the night in Calgary, we made the hour-and-a-half drive to Banff. Our first stop was Johnston Canyon.

If you’re visiting Banff in the winter, I think this hike is a must.

Johnston Canyon has three turnaround points depending on how far you want to hike:

• Lower Falls: 1.5 miles round trip (about 1 hour)
• Upper Falls: 3.4 miles round trip (about 2–2.5 hours)
• Ink Pots: 7.2 miles round trip (about 4–5 hours)

We decided to hike to the Upper Falls, which I thought was the perfect distance. The trail follows elevated catwalks through the canyon before reaching the frozen waterfalls.

Although the waterfalls were completely frozen, that was part of what made the hike so unique. We even got to watch several ice climbers making their way up the massive frozen waterfall, which was something I’d never seen before.

The trail is considered easy to moderate and is suitable for most fitness levels, but winter conditions can make it slippery.

Travel Tip: Bring ice cleats or wear hiking boots with good traction. Some sections of the trail were covered in ice, we slipped and fell at some point during the hike lol.

Banff Upper Hot Springs

After our hike, we drove about 15 minutes into Banff for a relaxing afternoon at the Banff Upper Hot Springs.

There really isn’t a better way to warm up after spending the morning outside. The outdoor mineral pool stays between 98°F and 104°F (37–40°C) year-round and overlooks the surrounding mountains.

Admission was around $20 CAD per person, and lockers were included. If you don’t have a swimsuit or towel, both can be rented on-site. Admission can only be purchased in person and is first come first serve. 

The facilities are fairly simple, but the views make it worth visiting. We spent about an hour soaking in the hot springs before heading to our next stop.

Fairmont Banff Springs

No trip to Banff feels complete without visiting the Fairmont Banff Springs.

Often called the “Castle in the Rockies,” this historic hotel is one of Banff’s most recognizable landmarks. Even if you’re not staying here, I’d recommend stopping by to walk around and grab a drink or a meal.

We spent some time exploring the lobby, gift shops, and decorated hallways before making our way to Waldhaus Restaurant, a cozy Bavarian-style pub tucked away on the property.

The restaurant is about a 10-minute walk from the main hotel, but there’s also a complimentary shuttle if you don’t feel like walking in the cold.

If you have extra time, the Fairmont also has:

• Willow Stream Spa
• Indoor pool
• Bowl Valley bowling alley
• Several restaurants and bars
• Seasonal afternoon tea

After dinner, we drove about 30 minutes back to our Airbnb in Canmore for the night.

---

Day 3: Skiing Sunshine Village & Dinner at The Grizzly House

We were up early for our first ski day at Sunshine Village, one of the three SkiBig3 resorts.

Parking at the base area is free, but you’ll need to display your Parks Canada Pass while parked. From the parking lot, you’ll take the Sunshine Gondola, one of the longest enclosed gondolas in North America, to reach the village before accessing the ski lifts. Once you are done skiing you can ride the gondola back down to the parking lot or you can ski all the way down which is a green run (“Banff Ave”).

Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side.

Visibility was pretty poor for most of the morning, so we didn’t get to enjoy the mountain views Sunshine Village is known for. Luckily, the snow conditions were excellent, and we still had a great day skiing.

We spent about four hours exploring the mountain before heading back to Banff for dinner.

Is Sunshine Village Good for Beginners?

Yes it is, we usually stick to green and blue runs, and there was plenty of terrain to keep us busy. The resort has over 3,300 acres of skiable terrain, so there’s something for every skill level.

If you’re an advanced skier, Sunshine is also known for its bowls and off-piste terrain once everything opens later in the season.

Dinner at The Grizzly House

That evening we had dinner at one of the most unique restaurants in Banff—The Grizzly House.

Originally opened as a disco in the 1960s, it’s now famous for its fondue and vintage telephones that are still on every table.

Of course, we couldn’t resist calling a few random tables.

One of the tables we had called on the telephone sent over a round of shots. It definitely made for one of the funniest memories from the trip.

We ordered both the cheese fondue and steak, and I’d recommend trying at least one of the fondue options since that’s what the restaurant is known for.

Travel Tip: The Grizzly House is one of Banff’s most popular restaurants, especially during ski season. I’d recommend making a reservation ahead of time if it’s on your list.

---

Day 4: Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

The weather wasn’t looking great, but we decided to make the hour-long drive from Canmore to Lake Louise anyway. Even though it snowed for most of the day.

When we arrived, the lake was completely frozen and covered in snow. We walked out onto the ice for a while and took in the views of the surrounding mountains. We even saw one person skating across the lake, but unfortunately we were visiting just a little too early in the season for the official skating rink to be open.

The famous Lake Louise skating rink and Ice Bar typically open around mid-December, depending on weather and ice conditions. Since we visited in early December, everything was still being prepared. It was a little disappointing, but now I have another reason to come back.

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

After exploring the lake, we headed inside the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise to warm up.

Even if you aren’t staying here, I’d recommend stopping in. The hotel has several restaurants, cozy seating areas with fireplaces, and beautiful views overlooking the lake.

We had lunch at the Lakeview Lounge, which has floor-to-ceiling windows facing Lake Louise. It was the perfect place to warm up while enjoying the view.

If you’re staying at the hotel, there are plenty of winter activities to enjoy once the season is in full swing, including:

• Ice skating on Lake Louise
• The seasonal Ice Bar
• Guided snowshoe tours
• Horse-drawn sleigh rides
• The Basin Glacial Waters spa experience

Even though the weather wasn’t ideal, we really enjoyed spending a few hours here before heading back to Canmore.

---

Day 5: Skiing Lake Louise Ski Resort

For our last full day, we planned one more ski day—this time at Lake Louise Ski Resort.

We left our Airbnb around 8:00 a.m. for the hour-long drive. Just like the day before, visibility wasn’t great in the morning, but we weren’t about to let that stop us.

As the afternoon went on, the clouds finally started to clear, and around 2:30 p.m. we finally got the mountain views we had been hoping for all week.

Is Lake Louise Ski Resort Worth It?

Yes, out of the two resorts we skied, Lake Louise ended up being my favorite.

The resort has over 4,200 skiable acres, making it one of the largest ski resorts in North America. I loved how long and wide the runs were, and there was a great mix of beginner, intermediate, and advanced terrain.

Since we mostly ski green and blue runs, we found plenty of trails to explore and never felt like we were skiing the same runs over and over.

One of my favorite parts of the day was stopping at Temple Lodge for a couple of beers before heading back out for a few more runs.

If I came back to Banff, Lake Louise would definitely be at the top of my list for another ski day.

---

Day 6: Head Home

The next morning, we packed up and made the drive back to Calgary for our flight home.

One thing I wasn’t prepared for was how busy Calgary International Airport was.

Since you’re flying back to the United States, you’ll go through U.S. Customs before boarding your flight. The lines ended up taking much longer than we expected, and by the time we made it through security, we were sprinting through the terminal to our gate.

Thankfully we made it just in time, but it was definitely a stressful way to end an otherwise relaxing trip.

Travel Tip: Give yourself plenty of extra time at Calgary International Airport if you’re flying back to the U.S. between security, customs, and walking to your gate, the process can take much longer than expected.

---

My Tips After Visiting Banff

Now that we’ve experienced Banff in the winter, here are a few things I’d recommend if you’re planning a similar trip.

• Stay in Canmore if you’re looking to save money. The extra driving was worth it for us because accommodations were much more affordable than staying in Banff. If you have the budget to stay in downtown Banff that would be way more convenient.
• Bring ice cleats if you plan to hike Johnston Canyon in the winter.
• Purchase a Parks Canada Pass before entering the park so you’re ready to go.
• If you have an Ikon Pass, use it. It saved us a lot on lift tickets.
• Make dinner reservations ahead of time, especially for popular restaurants like The Grizzly House.
• Plan around the daylight hours. Winter days are much shorter than we expected, especially in December. We had to try and fit in everything we wanted to do and see each day with only 8 hours of daylight.
• Give yourself extra time at Calgary Airport on your departure day if you’re flying back to the United States.

---

Best Time to Visit Banff in Winter

Banff’s winter season typically runs from early November through mid-May, but each part of the season offers a different experience depending on what you’re looking for.

Early Winter (November–December)

This is when we visited.

The town was decorated for Christmas, there were fewer crowds than peak season, and accommodation prices were generally a little lower. The SkiBig3 resorts usually open during the first half of November, although not all terrain is available this early in the season. By Christmas, most runs are open, but advanced terrain often doesn’t open until late January or February.

There was already plenty of snow when we visited in early December, and since we mostly ski green and blue runs, we never felt limited.

The biggest downside was the weather. Temperatures hovered around 12°F (-11°C) during our trip, and the daylight hours were short. The sun didn’t rise until around 8:40 a.m. and set around 4:30 p.m., giving us less than eight hours of daylight to fit everything into each day.

Peak Winter (January–February)

If skiing is your priority, this is usually the best time to visit.

By late January and February, all three SkiBig3 resorts typically have their full terrain open, including advanced runs. February is often considered the best month for snow conditions, and you’ll also have longer days, with around 10 to 10.5 hours of daylight by late February.

Although these are usually the coldest months of the year, the extra daylight gives you much more time to enjoy the slopes.

Spring Skiing (March–May)

Spring is another great time to visit Banff if you prefer slightly warmer weather.

By mid-March, you’ll have around 12 hours of daylight, making it much easier to fit in skiing and sightseeing. Snow conditions are still excellent, and you’ll often find fewer crowds outside of spring break and Easter.

Spring also brings some fun events to the mountains, including live music, BBQs, patio parties, and the popular pond skim competitions.

• Lake Louise Ski Resort hosts Mount Slushmore, usually in late April.
• Sunshine Village hosts the Slush Cup each year during the May Long Weekend.

Ski Resort Closing Dates

While weather can affect the schedule each year, ski season generally ends as follows:

• Mount Norquay: Mid-April
• Lake Louise Ski Resort: Early May
• Sunshine Village: Mid-May

---

Where to Stay in Banff

There are three main areas to stay when visiting Banff during the winter.

Downtown Banff

If it’s your first trip and your budget allows for it, I’d recommend staying in downtown Banff.

You’ll be within walking distance of restaurants, cafés, breweries, and shops, and many hotels offer free ski shuttles to the SkiBig3 resorts. You can also explore the town without worrying about finding parking.

If you’re looking for a luxury stay, the Fairmont Banff Springs is one of the most famous hotels in Canada and is worth the splurge if it fits your budget.

Canmore (Where We Stayed)

We chose to stay in Canmore because accommodations were much more affordable.

Our Airbnb was larger, less expensive, and only about 30 minutes from downtown Banff. The trade-off was the extra driving each day, but for us it was worth the savings.

Driving times from Canmore:

• Downtown Banff: 30 minutes
• Banff Upper Hot Springs: 30 minutes
• Mount Norquay: 30 minutes
• Sunshine Village Ski Resort: 35 minutes
• Lake Louise: 1 hour

Lake Louise

If you plan on spending most of your trip skiing Lake Louise or visiting the lake, staying here can be a great option.

Just keep in mind that hotels are limited, prices are high, and you’ll be about 45 minutes from downtown Banff.

---

Getting Around Banff

The closest airport is Calgary International Airport (YYC), about 1½ hours from Banff and 1 hour 15 minutes from Canmore.

Since we stayed in Canmore, renting a car was the best option. It gave us the flexibility to ski, hike, and visit attractions on our own schedule.

If you’re staying in downtown Banff, though, you can easily get around without a rental car.

Airport shuttle companies like Banff Airporter and RTB Tours offer service from Calgary Airport to Banff and Canmore. Once you’re in town, Roam Transit and the free ski shuttles make it easy to reach many of Banff’s top attractions.

Helpful Roam Transit Routes in Banff

• Route 1: Banff Upper Hot Springs
• Route 8X: Lake Louise (seat reservations recommended)
• Route 9: Johnston Canyon (winter service is limited and may only operate on weekends)
• Route 3: Canmore to Downtown Banff (about 30 minutes)
• Free SkiBig3 Shuttles: Sunshine Village, Lake Louise Ski Resort, and Mount Norquay

Travel Tip: If you’re staying in Canmore and don’t want to rent a car, you can take Roam Route 3 into Banff for about $6 CAD, then transfer to other Roam buses or the free ski shuttles.

---

Parks Canada Pass

One thing that’s easy to forget when planning a Banff trip is purchasing a Parks Canada Pass.

A pass is required for anyone visiting Banff National Park, whether you’re driving through the park, hiking, sightseeing, or skiing. If you’re renting a car, make sure to display your pass on your dashboard whenever you’re parked within the park, including at the ski resorts. Technically, even if you don’t have a car, each individual is supposed to have a park pass on them while in Banff but it’s mostly an honor system since the only way rangers are checking for park passes is by making sure vehicles have a pass displayed.

You have 3 pass options:

• Daily Pass: Best for trips lasting six days or less. Cost is ~ $12 CAD per day per person.
• Discovery Pass (Annual Pass): Gives you unlimited admission to more than 80 Parks Canada locations for one year. If you’re planning a longer trip or visiting multiple Canadian national parks within a year, this is usually the better value.
  • Cost is $84 CAD for one adult
  • Cost is $167 CAD for the family/group pass (covers up to 7 people in a single vehicle)
• Family/Group Pass: This pass covers up to 7 people who arrived in the same vehicle.
  • Cost is $24 CAD per day
  • Best for trips that are 6 days or less and if you have 2 or more adults in one car.

You can purchase your pass online before your trip, at the park gates, or at Parks Canada visitor centers throughout Banff National Park.

Travel Tip: If your trip falls between June 19 and September 7, 2026, park admission is completely free and you do not need a pass. Also if you are 17 years old or younger you do not need to purchase a pass.

---

SkiBig3 & Ikon Pass

One of the biggest reasons we chose Banff was because all three ski resorts are part of SkiBig3.

SkiBig3 includes:

• Sunshine Village
• Lake Louise Ski Resort
• Mount Norquay

Each resort offers a different experience, so if you’re skiing for several days, it’s worth trying more than one.

Since we already had Ikon Passes, we didn’t have to purchase lift tickets separately, which saved us quite a bit of money.

Ikon Pass Benefits

If you have an Ikon Pass, here’s what’s included:

Ikon Base Pass

• 5 total days between all three SkiBig3 resorts
• Blackout dates apply

Full Ikon Pass

• 7 total days between all three SkiBig3 resorts
• No blackout dates

One thing to keep in mind is that the included days are shared across all three resorts, not five or seven days at each mountain.

If you’re planning to ski more than your included days, additional lift tickets can be purchased directly through SkiBig3 or each individual resort.

---

Banff in Summary

Between skiing, hiking to frozen waterfalls, relaxing in the hot springs, exploring the Fairmont hotels, and spending time around Lake Louise, every day felt different. Even though the weather didn’t always cooperate, we still had an amazing trip.

If I could change one thing, I’d probably visit a little later in the season. The longer daylight hours and better chance of clear mountain views would make it easier to fit more into each day. I’d also love to come back once the Lake Louise skating rink and Ice Bar are open.

That said, I still think early December is a great time to visit if you’re looking for fewer crowds, lower accommodation prices, and a festive Christmas atmosphere.