Zermatt in Winter: A Travel Guide to Switzerland’s Most Iconic Ski Town
Zermatt, Switzerland was the very first stop on our two-week European ski road trip from November 29 to December 12, and it couldn’t have been a more magical place to begin. As part of the Matterhorn Ski Paradise, Zermatt is included on the Ikon Pass and is open all year round, which made it an easy addition to our itinerary.
From the moment we arrived, Zermatt felt like something out of a snow globe — a tiny, car-free alpine village filled with cozy chalets, boutique shops, charming restaurants, lively bars, and world-class skiing. The town sits beneath the iconic Matterhorn, one of the most recognizable mountains in the world, and is home to Europe’s highest ski resort. One of the most unique experiences here is the ability to ski across the border into Cervinia, Italy, then return to Switzerland — all in one day.
Add in the fact that Zermatt is completely car-free, and you have a winter destination that feels peaceful, walkable, and wonderfully old-world.
How to Get to Zermatt (Logistics Made Easy)
We flew into Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) and rented a car from Green Motion. The rental office was a bit farther from the airport than others, but it was significantly cheaper — worth it if you’re comfortable with a short shuttle ride.
From Milan, we drove about 3 hours to Täsch, Switzerland, the last town you can access by car before Zermatt. Since Zermatt is car-free, you’ll need to park your vehicle in Täsch and take the train the rest of the way.
TIP: Take the BLS Simplon Car train For the quickest route from Milan to Tasch, saving you about 45 minutes of drive time.
- You will find the car train after driving about 1.5 hours from Milan airport.
- The car train is called BLS Autoverlad Simplon located in Iselle, Italy
- The car train takes about 20 minutes and brings you to Brig, Switzerland
- The car train runs about every 90 minutes so check the train schedule ahead of time at BLS Simplon Car Train Schedule
- It offers a safer and more convenient way to get across the Simplon pass especially in snowy conditions.
- Hours of operation are usually: 5:30 am to 10pm
- You can also take the car train when returning to Italy from Switzerland
Parking & Train from Täsch to Zermatt
- Park your car in the Täsch Railway Station parking garage
- Take the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn from Täsch to Zermatt
- Train ride: 12 minutes
- Runs every 20 minutes from 5:55 AM to 9:55 PM
- After hours, trains run less frequently
- For train times visit: Zermatt train times
A round-trip ticket (valid for up to 30 days) costs about CHF 17.20 (~$22 USD). Be sure to keep your ticket for the return journey.
You can buy tickets:
- At the station upon arrival
- Or pre-purchase online via the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn website at Zermatt train tickets
- No seat reservations are required
- If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, the train is included
Getting Around Zermatt
Once you arrive in Zermatt, everything is walkable. However, if you’re hauling luggage or ski bags, you’ll notice electric taxis waiting near the station. These small, specialized taxis are incredibly convenient.
- Cost: ~CHF 30
- Cash is recommended (ATMs nearby)
Where to Stay in Zermatt
You truly can’t go wrong when choosing where to stay in Zermatt. The town is compact and walkable, so nearly every accommodation is in a great location. Your decision will mostly come down to whether you prefer a hotel experience with amenities or the extra space and flexibility of an Airbnb.
We stayed in a cozy one-bedroom Airbnb with a living room, kitchen, and balcony — just a 5-minute walk from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise lift, which was perfect for ski days.
Bonus: The Cutest Local Resident 🐈
One unexpected highlight of our stay was the local orange cat that lived on the property. It followed us into our Airbnb, hung out with us, and absolutely refused to leave — and we were more than happy about it. Honestly, 10/10 experience.
Things to Do in Zermatt in Winter (Our 3-Night Itinerary)
We spent three nights in Zermatt, and while I unfortunately caught a cold at the start of our trip, we still managed to enjoy the town at a slower, more relaxed pace.
Day 1: Arrival Day
After a long day of flying, driving, parking, training, and checking in, we were completely exhausted. We settled into our Airbnb and called it an early night.
Day 2: Exploring Zermatt Town
We slept in and didn’t wake up until around 11 AM, deciding to skip skiing and explore the town instead.
- Late breakfast at Hotel Zermama — highly recommend
- Wandered through Zermatt’s charming streets and shops
- Stopped for hot punch (with a whiskey shot — highly encouraged)
- Dinner at Schäferstube, a cozy, traditional restaurant
- Ended the night with a beer at Papperla Pub
It was the perfect low-key day to soak in the town’s atmosphere.
Day 3: Ski Day (Weather-Dependent)
We geared up for our first ski day but were briefly delayed by our furry Airbnb friend who clearly didn’t want us to leave.
Once on the mountain, we did a few runs, but low visibility made conditions challenging. We stopped for hot soup and drinks at Restaurant Furri, then skied a bit more before calling it early.
Unfortunately, the weather prevented us from:
-
Seeing the Matterhorn
-
Skiing into Italy
Still, being on the mountain was an experience in itself.
Later that afternoon, we returned to town around 4 PM and continued exploring Zermatt before turning in for the night.
Day 4: Departure
We checked out, grabbed an electric taxi to the train station, retrieved our rental car in Täsch, and drove about 5 hours to the Dolomites, our next destination.
If your visiting the Dolomites in the winter check out: Dolomites Winter Itinerary: A 4-Night Ski Trip
Important Winter Travel Tips for Zermatt
- We visited early in the ski season (Nov 29 – Dec 2)
- Would recommend staying longer then 3 nights in case the weather is not ideal for skiing some of the days- which is what happened to us
- Ski lifts were open, but Iglu-Dorf was closed
- Iglu-Dorf typically operates from mid-December through early April
- Access for the Iglu-Dorf is ski-only for day visits or there are overnight stays in igloos available
Apres-ski was also very quiet during our visit. If you’re visiting later in the season, check out:
- Hennu Stall (on the mountain)
- Cervo (on the mountain)
- Champagne Bar (on the mountain)
- Harry’s Ski Bar (in town)
- Papperla Pub (in town)
Final Thoughts on Zermatt in Winter
Zermatt is a truly special winter destination. The car-free streets, dramatic mountain scenery, and charming alpine atmosphere make it feel peaceful yet exciting at the same time. Even with less-than-perfect weather and an early-season visit, Zermatt completely won us over.
This is one of those places that deserves a return trip — and next time, I’ll be back for full-on apres ski, clearer views of the Matterhorn, and maybe another visit from that orange cat.
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