Austria in Winter: The Ultimate Kitzbühel & St. Anton Ski Guide and Itinerary
Austria was a great addition to our European ski road trip! We spent 5 nights in Austria — 2 nights in Kitzbühel and 3 nights in St. Anton am Arlberg — during our two-week ski trip from November 29–December 12.
Kitzbühel was stop #3 after Zermatt, Switzerland and the Dolomites, Italy, followed by St. Anton before we eventually returned to Milan to fly home to San Diego, California.
These two Austrian ski towns offer very different experiences. Kitzbühel is known for its charming old town, scenic skiing, and upscale alpine atmosphere, while St. Anton is famous for challenging terrain and some of the wildest après-ski in the Alps. Add in Christmas markets and a couple of incredible spa stops, and Austria quickly became one of my favorite parts of the trip.
If you’re planning an Austria ski trip, here’s how we spent our five nights, where we stayed, and what I’d recommend knowing before you go.
Austria Winter Ski Trip: Quick Guide
| Trip detail | What to know |
|---|---|
| Total time | 5 nights, 6 days including departure |
| Kitzbühel | 2 nights |
| St. Anton | 3 nights |
| Best for | Skiing, alpine towns, spas, après-ski |
| Best airports for Kitzbühel | Salzburg, Innsbruck, or Munich |
| Getting around | Rental car between towns; walk in St. Anton |
| Ski pass | KitzSki offers Ikon Pass access; St. Anton requires a separate ticket |
| Best time to visit | December–March for the core winter season; early-season snow varies |
How to Get to Kitzbühel, Austria
We flew into Milan Malpensa Airport and rented a car through Green Motion Rental. The rental location was a bit farther from the airport, but it was the most cost-effective option we found for our multi-country ski itinerary.
Before arriving in Austria, we were staying in Castelrotto in the Dolomites. The drive to Kitzbühel took about 3 hours, including an unexpected (and very worthwhile!) spa stop at Atoll Achensee.
Driving directly from Milan to Kitzbühel takes approximately 6 hours, depending on traffic and road conditions, so flying closer is a much easier option if Austria is your main destination.
Best Airports for Kitzbühel
| Airport | Approximate drive |
|---|---|
| Salzburg (SZG) | 1–1.5 hours |
| Innsbruck (INN) | 1.5 hours |
| Munich (MUC) | 2 hours |
Travel times are estimates and can increase with winter weather and traffic. Kitzbühel is also accessible by train, so you don’t necessarily need a rental car if you’re staying in town and skiing locally. Official Kitzbühel travel information
Driving tip: If you’re renting a car, check whether your rental includes the required Austrian motorway vignette. Also check winter tire requirements, cross-border rental permissions, and parking at your accommodations before setting off. You also must get an International Drivers Permit (IDP) when driving in Austria (as well as neighboring countries such as Italy). You can get an IDP through AAA for about $30.
After our two nights in Kitzbühel, we drove approximately 2–2.5 hours to St. Anton am Arlberg.
Where to Stay in Kitzbühel in Winter
Kitzbühel is a small but upscale ski town known for luxury hotels, designer boutiques, colorful buildings, and the legendary Hahnenkamm downhill race. You can find apartments and Airbnbs, but after several nights of hopping between rentals, we opted for a hotel.
Lebenberg Schlosshotel — Highly Recommend!
We stayed at Lebenberg Schlosshotel, perched above town with panoramic mountain views.
Why we loved it:
- Indoor infinity-style pool overlooking the Alps
- Spacious lobby and cozy bar
- Fitness room and spa amenities
- Breakfast included, which was a huge win for ski mornings
- Shuttle to ski lifts
Our room wasn’t the most modern, but the overall experience more than made up for it.
Cost: Approximately $500 for 2 nights, booked through Booking.com.
The hotel is above town, so factor in transportation if you plan to walk into the center for dinner or drinks. We drove to the ski lifts, and the hotel also offered a shuttle.
Where to Stay in St. Anton am Arlberg
St. Anton is a charming alpine village with a lively ski scene. The central area is very walkable, and once we arrived, we didn’t need our car.
Hotel Pension Kirchplatz
We stayed at Hotel Pension Kirchplatz, a cozy hotel in the heart of town.
What to know:
- Spacious room by European standards
- Breakfast included
- Parking garage a short walk away
- Convenient location for skiing, restaurants, and après-ski
Cost: Approximately $600 for 3 nights through Booking.com.
I loved being able to walk around town after skiing without worrying about driving. If après-ski is on your list, staying within walking distance of the village and its bars is especially convenient.
Best Time to Ski in Kitzbühel and St. Anton
Kitzbühel: KitzSki
Kitzbühel was an easy addition to our itinerary because of its Ikon Pass access. Check the current season’s access dates and restrictions before relying on your pass, as benefits can change.
KitzSki has a mix of groomed runs, mountain restaurants, and beautiful alpine scenery. It’s also home to the famous Streif downhill course, one of the most recognizable courses in professional ski racing.
We skied in early December and had incredible conditions: bluebird skies, great snow, and almost no crowds. Early season can be a sweet spot if you’re flexible, but snow coverage and open terrain aren’t guaranteed.
St. Anton am Arlberg: Ski Arlberg
St. Anton wasn’t included in our Ikon Pass access, so we purchased a separate lift ticket. It was absolutely worth it for the skiing and après-ski experience.
The wider Ski Arlberg region offers around 300 km of marked pistes and 85 lifts, with terrain for different ability levels and extensive off-piste options. Official Ski Arlberg information
St. Anton has a reputation for challenging skiing, so less experienced skiers should check the trail map and conditions before heading onto unfamiliar terrain.
| Planning detail | Kitzbühel | St. Anton |
|---|---|---|
| Main appeal | Scenic skiing and charming town | Challenging skiing and après-ski |
| Pass | Ikon Pass access; verify current terms | Separate lift ticket |
| Ideal for | Mixed ski days and town exploring | Strong skiers and party atmosphere |
| Après-ski | Mountain bars and relaxed drinks | Famous high-energy parties |
For current lift dates and ticket prices, check the KitzSki website and St. Anton lift ticket website.
Our 5-Night Austria Winter Itinerary
Day 1: Dolomites → Achensee Spa → Kitzbühel
Drive time: Approximately 3 hours, plus the spa stop
We left Castelrotto in the Dolomites and made an unexpected stop at Atoll Achensee before continuing to Kitzbühel. We arrived around 6 p.m., checked into our hotel, grabbed dinner, and crashed after a full travel day.
Here’s what we didn’t know before buying our spa tickets: the Penthouse Spa is a textile-free, or clothing-optional in the everyday sense, sauna area where swimsuits aren’t permitted. In fact, nudity is expected throughout the area, including the infinity pool. Robes are worn in the bistro. Check the official spa rules before visiting.
The Penthouse Spa had:
- Indoor and outdoor heated pools
- Saunas and steam rooms
- Cold plunges
- Lake views and outdoor relaxation areas
We spent about three hours there, and it was such a fun, relaxing break between ski destinations. If you’d prefer to keep your swimsuit on, check out the separate Panorama-BAD swimming area and its ticket options.
Atoll Achensee Penthouse Spa tickets
Day 2: Skiing in Kitzbühel
After breakfast at the hotel, we drove about five minutes to the Bergbahn AG Kitzbühel lift area. The hotel shuttle was another option.
Kitzbühel delivered exactly what I wanted from an Austrian ski day: long, scenic runs, gorgeous mountain views, and cozy mountain lodges for food and drinks.
We stopped midday at Streifalm / Stoanbergkogel Gipfel Bar for drinks. Don’t skip the Flügerl shots if you enjoy a fun mountain-bar atmosphere — they’re a local party-style vodka and energy drink combination.
We skied until sunset around 4:30 p.m., then headed back to the hotel for dinner.
My tip: Winter days are short, especially in early December. Start skiing early so you can make the most of the daylight, and check which lifts and sectors are operating before heading out.
Day 3: Kitzbühel Old Town → Innsbruck Christmas Markets → St. Anton
Driving time: Approximately 2–2.5 hours total, with a stop in Innsbruck
We spent the morning wandering through Kitzbühel’s colorful old town, popping into shops and cafés before leaving for Innsbruck.
The drive to Innsbruck took about 1 hour and 20 minutes. We explored the Christmas markets, enjoyed hot Glühwein, admired the festive lights, and did some souvenir shopping. The remaining drive to St. Anton took about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
Christmas markets typically run from November into December, but dates and opening hours vary by market. Check the schedule for your travel year before building your day around them.
Once we arrived in St. Anton, we checked into our hotel and grabbed dinner and drinks at Galzig Bistro Bar, a lively spot near the slopes.
This was a full day, but it was a great way to break up the drive and experience a little more of Austria beyond the ski resorts.
Day 4: Skiing St. Anton + Après-Ski at Mooserwirt
This was the wildest day of the entire trip.
We spent the day skiing St. Anton, which has a very different feel from Kitzbühel. The terrain is expansive, the mountains are dramatic, and there’s no shortage of places to stop for food or drinks.
After a few runs, we stopped at Taja Ski Bar and tried Bombardino, a warm, creamy egg-based Italian alpine drink. It was so good we ordered seconds.
Then came Mooserwirt, one of the most outrageous après-ski parties I’ve ever experienced.
What to expect:
- Dancing on tables
- Live music and packed floors
- Party shots and plenty of drinks
- People singing and dancing in ski boots
- Spontaneous snowball fights outside
We partied until around 8 p.m., then made our way down the mountain with a group of very drunk (but happy) skiers. It was truly comical.
Important safety tip: Mooserwirt is above the village, and getting back down involves a ski route which wasn’t the most easy after some drinks.
Dinner was a must afterward before collapsing into bed.
Day 5: St. Anton Recovery Day
After 11 nights of nonstop travel and the Mooserwirt party, we needed a break.
We kept things slow:
- Slept in
- Walked around town
- Ate good food
- Caught up on laundry
You could use this day to ski again, explore more of the village, or simply enjoy a long lunch and mountain views.
I highly recommend leaving some flexibility in a longer ski trip. Between weather, travel days, and après-ski, a buffer day can make the whole itinerary more enjoyable.
Day 6: St. Anton → Milan + QC Terme
Drive time: Approximately 4.5 hours, depending on traffic and route
On departure day, we drove back to Milan and treated ourselves to QC Terme Milano, one of the most Instagrammable spas I’ve ever visited.
Highlights included:
- Indoor and outdoor heated pools
- Saunas, including a wooden bus sauna
- Relaxation rooms
- A thunderstorm-themed hot tub experience
We booked the evening ticket for approximately $80, which included two drinks and snacks when we visited. Prices and inclusions can change, so check the QC Terme Milano website before booking.
It was the perfect final stop before staying at an airport hotel and flying home the following morning.
Is Austria Worth Visiting in Winter?
Absolutely! Kitzbühel and St. Anton offer two very different but equally incredible alpine experiences. Kitzbühel combines scenic skiing, a charming old town, and a more upscale atmosphere, while St. Anton delivers challenging terrain and unforgettable après-ski.
The Christmas markets and spa stops made the road trip even better, and I loved having a mix of skiing, exploring, and relaxing instead of spending every day on the slopes.
If I were planning this trip again, I’d keep both destinations. Two nights in Kitzbühel and three in St. Anton gave us a great introduction to Austrian skiing, although an extra night would have allowed more time to explore each town.
If you’re planning a winter European ski trip, don’t overlook Austria. It’s a fantastic addition to an itinerary through Switzerland and the Dolomites — especially if you love mountain views, cozy alpine towns, and a little après-ski chaos!
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